My last stop on the ‘Aussie Tour’ was in Cairns, Queensland up in the northeast corner of the country. And there was only one reason I was there—the reef. The Great Barrier Reef has almost one fifth of the world’s reef area making it the largest coral reef in the world. Actually, the GBR is a chain of 2,900 separate reefs stretching some 1,200 miles along Australia’s east coast. To give you a perspective, the Great Barrier Reef is larger than the Great Wall of China and is the only living thing visible from space.Reefs form where temperatures don’t fall below 18 degrees Celsius (64 degrees Fahrenheit) for long periods, so are usually found between 30 degrees north and south of the equator. Most require very saline water; also the water must be very clear so light penetrates. Washed by the warm waters of the South-West Pacific Ocean, the world’s largest system of coral reefs has the perfect environment. The Great Barrier Reef is listed by the World Heritage Trust as a protected site and is therefore managed by the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority to ensure that its beauty is maintained for many generations to come.

I booked a boat tour for a day to discover the reef myself. I chose Tusa Dive tours because there would only be about thirty folks on the boat…better than some of the larger trips where you are bumping into more snorkelers under the sea than fish.

It was the rainy season so there was some sediment churned up, but luckily at our spot on the reef, the visibility was pretty good. We did a morning dive and then after a tasty lunch buffet we went down for a second time. The sun was shining and the water was wonderfully warm at about 85 degrees Fahrenheit. I wasn’t going to use a wet suit as I hadn’t in the Galapagos. Then the guides started scaring me with talk of jellyfish and other ‘sea lice’ that sting and bite. I went bare on my first dive and did feel some sharp random stinging here and there and saw a scary looking jellyfish float by. This was enough to scare me into wearing a ‘shorty’ on my next dive. Much better. The sea life was pretty amazing—lots of colorful tropical fish, clown fish, clams, sea anemones, and even a sea cucumber.

Sadly, I didn’t see the coral colors I expected. Global warming is also affecting this precious and magical place. The concern: As global warming heats the ocean surface, the coral can get bleached-out more often, giving reefs less time to recover. Coral bleaching occurs when the animal organisms that make up the coral die, leaving behind a white limestone skeleton. The biggest way we can help prevent further destruction of coral reefs is to help curb global warming by educating people and making them aware that global warming exists and the consequences of it. Unfortunately, awareness isn’t enough. People have to do something. The governments of many nations have met and passed bills and mandates to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. These include the Berlin Mandate and Kyoto Protocol. The Kyoto Protocol is the first international agreement to fight global warming. It was signed by 141 nations, including all European and all other developed industrial nations…except the US and Australia.

The pact went into effect on February 16, 2005, and expires in 2012. The Kyoto Protocol has been celebrated by its backers as a lifeline to save our planet from disastrous human-caused effects of a warming global climate. It sets legally-binding targets for developed countries to reduce greenhouse emissions within 7 years, to about 5% below 1990 levels. To reach this goal, countries must put greenhouse emissions controls on its largest polluters, which are corporations and militaries. Productivity will only be maintained if the polluters seek cleaner, renewable alternative energies to replace fossil fuel (gas) energy. Solar, wind and geothermal energy are examples of renewable sources.

Vice President Al Gore was a main participant in putting the Kyoto Protocol together in 1997. President Bill Clinton signed the agreement in 1997, but the US Senate refused to ratify it, citing potential damage to the US economy required by compliance. The Senate also balked at the agreement because it excluded certain developing countries, including India and China, from having to comply with new emissions standards.

George Bush made campaign promises in 2000 to regulate carbon dioxide as a pollutant. However, in 2001, he pulled the US out of the Kyoto accords as one of the first acts of his presidency. Bush dismissed the Kyoto Protocol as too costly and lately, the White House has even questioned the validity of the science behind global warming, and claims that millions of jobs will be lost if the US joins in this world pact.

After six weeks, my short-lived career as a sandwich engineer and coffee chemist is over. For the most part I really enjoyed learning some new things–like the correct way to slice capsicum or dealing with a currency that has six coins–and meeting the real (and hungry) people of Melbourne.

At the Licata’s café, I had the unique honor of being the only American they had ever hired. But, coincidentally, about 9 out of 10 customers asked me if I was from Canada. This has been happening to me during my entire trip and isn’t surprising because of the fact that Canadians simply travel the world much more than Americans. And in turn, I’ve already met more Canadians than Americans in my few months on the road. When I answered this common asked question of ‘if I was Canadian’, most askers would always apologize because, apparently, when it’s the other way around most Canadians find it rather insulting to be called an American. Sadly, I can sometimes understand why. Of course, the few Americans I have met are very interesting and not an embarrassment at all to our country. But, of course, I haven’t met any Mississippians or West Virginians (there are about ten to fifteen other states I could throw in here) traveling the world just yet. Now, I certainly don’t mind being mistaken for a Canadian—I mean seriously, we do sound and look very much alike…well, unless you’re from the ‘country’ of Quebec, oui monsieur.

The best part of working at a café (besides the fun and free sandwiches or yummy salads for lunch everyday—I’m a lunch junkie!), was getting to know my co-workers and meeting all the different people and quirky characters that came in everyday. There was the ‘never-smiling’ Eastern European guy who ordered his lunch like it was always his last meal on earth. “Give me the Rye Cobb Loaf. No, not sliced! In a bag. Goodbye.”

Or Margaret who was a regular—she always ordered the same two sandwiches everyday, and wanted them exactly the same each time. “No, it’s tom-mah-to, then the cucumber and then capsicum, then pepper and just a dash of salt on top of the pepper.”

There was the Australian Football hottie whom all the counter girls drooled over as he ordered his ‘manly’ tuna sandwich on white bread. Just as I was finally remembering that John came in every day and ordered a ‘regular capp., two sugars’ or Greg, a tall, dark in the goth way, guy that lived around the corner wanted his latte with ‘one and a half sugars,’ it was time for me to leave.

But, I also was quite ready to leave because it was also at this time that the Italian owner, Charlie, was really starting to get on my nerves. It didn’t matter if he was an Italian with a ‘funny’ Australian accent—he was still Italian through and through and innocently ‘hit on’ me and all the café girls in his charming yet skeevy way. This fifty-year-old Sicilian also kept things interesting by being the biggest micromanager I’ve ever had in my entire working career.

“Is that a piece of lettuce in the to-mah-toes??”

“Someone just walked in this second—have you asked them what they want yet???”

“Did you ask this customer if he wanted salt and pepper on his take away sandwich??”

“It doesn’t matter that there are tons of customers waiting, you must write take away orders on this color paper.”

“You just scratched your ass wrong. Up and down, not left to right.” (okay, he really didn’t say that, nor did I scratch my ass at work, but you get the picture)!

He was unquestionably condescending to all his employees and even though they were all much younger than me, no one deserves to be talked to that way. You could have just finished serving a dozen customers, he would walk in from the kitchen and see dirty dishes on a table and remind you to always check the tables. Or you could be cleaning off the dirty tables when customers would walk in and he would come in and ask you why you aren’t behind the counter helping these starving customers. Believe me, the customer service here was great compared to anywhere else I went in Melbourne and no one here ever waiting longer than a minute to be served and were always told ‘hello, we’ll be right with you’ as soon as they walked in the door. In fact, I really appreciated this since one of my pet peeves today is some of the poor customer service out there where cashiers don’t even look up at you when they ring you up or never even utter ‘hello’ or ‘thank you’ (I’m distinctly thinking of Walgreens back in the states). But now being on the other end—the constant barrage of reminders could be maddening. He would tell us ad nauseum how to ‘build’ a sandwich or how to write up an order ticket (because he just didn’t read it correctly when it got to the kitchen) or how to freaking mop the damn floor. Now, don’t get me wrong, I totally respect the amount of work that goes into owning and operating a food establishment. I realize now how non-stop the work really is and learned it first hand (and foot)—especially since we were dealing with perishable and bug-attracting food—a restaurant is inherently susceptible to so many more problems or challenges than, say, a gift shop where at closing time you can literally switch off the lights and lock the door at 5:01pm. At closing time in the café, we knew we’d be around for at least another hour wrapping foods, cleaning out toasters and pizza warmers, cleaning and wrapping up each individual dish in the sandwich bar, and every cake tray, washing dishes, taking apart and cleaning the entire espresso machine, sweeping, cleaning tables, mopping, taking out the trash, tossing old breads, and pre-made sandwiches, and on and on.

But, besides all the hard work all the guys and gals who work there seem to put in, Charlie rarely would simply say ‘good job’ or ‘thanks for the hard work today’ or God forbid actually just notice something good someone did. He continued to find fault with everything and anything and this got me frustrated yet happy I was only working there for a few weeks. He wanted his people to be perfect, but he never got the schedule right (when I told him the two days I couldn’t work one week, those inevitably were the days he put me on and I had to remind him several times to change it. But when I asked for more hours my last two weeks, he actually took me off the schedule). In the end, after going back and forth with him several pointless times on this issue, I had had it. So being the “typical” independent, strong minded American woman that I am, I let him certainly know how I felt. He expected us to listen to him and be perfect, but I felt he wasn’t really listening to us. I mean I literally spent about $100 to change my next two flights in order to work there for a few more weeks. When I was first hired I felt very guilty that they were going to put in the time to train me and then I would leave in three weeks.

I didn’t care if I was just a casual visa-less worker, I still deserved just a sliver of respect. Luckily, it wasn’t just me who felt this way and after a run-in with the boss, I happened to bump into Mark, the thirty-two year old chef from Manchester, England who actually lasted less time than me there—he quit after just two weeks. We commiserated about the minutiae-meddling ways of Charlie. Mark recounted some of his frustrating yet hilarious times in the kitchen with Charlie telling him how he had it all wrong.

“Oh no, Mark. It’s lettuce, than chicken, then mayonnaise–that’s the correct order—not mayo, chicken, lettuce—that’s so wrong. My repeat customers want consistency.” I wasn’t the only bitter and sarcastic one.

Mark jokingly said, “Oh, yes, because I know some of their amazingly loyal customers bit into my Chicken burgers and in mid-mastication stopped and said, ‘something is wrong here. It just has the wrong mouth-feel. I must send this back. The lettuce is on top and it should be underneath. It’s just not right’” In laughing about Charlie’s crazy ways, I realized why he had such a high turnover rate.

But, then my last day came. Charlie and I had mended our fences and he and his wife Rose completely caught me off guard with a lovely ‘goodbye’ gift. I mean it was truly unexpected and unnecessary. I had only worked there for 6 weeks, after all. They had taken the time to write me a sweet card and gave me a tiny gift wrapped box. Maybe Charlie was going to propose to me? Luckily, no, it was a very cute pair of stud earrings.

All in all, it was a fun and educational experience that has me wondering if I really want to run my own café one day. But, at least for now, I know I can work in one. So when I return to the states, Starbucks, here I come!

After living in Melbourne (pronounced ‘Mel-bun’ by the locals) for a month and a half, I feel as if I’ve just about moved here. I’ve become quite familiar with this lovely city on the Yarra river and some of its finer offerings over the last few weeks. In so many ways Melbourne has been competing with its older brother, Sydney, since the 19^th Century. Just as in the U.S., Chicago will always be second banana to New York City, hence its oft-used nickname: The Second City. Here, it seems Melbourne could be called the same thing.

Currently, Melbourne has about 3.7 million inhabitants, but was once Australia’s largest city thanks to a gold rush in the mid 1800s. Sydney was first claimed for the British by Captain James Cook in 1770 (of course the Aborigines were here first—for, oh about 50,000 years) and, it’s no rumor, many of its first inhabitants were British convicts. This Island nation was first seen as a harsh and horrible place—and in many ways it still is very tough for folks to live here—case in point—the horrible drought they’ve been suffering for several years now. Unlike the U.S., Australia has NO water running through the middle of it. More than 168,000 convicts had been ‘shipped’ to Australia by the time the practice was abolished in the mid 1800s. Sydney now has a little over 4 million, mostly law-abiding people who get to admire the Opera House and stunning Harbour on a regular basis.

Melbourne hosted the first Olympic Games in the Southern Hemisphere in 1956 and became the country’s sporting capital. Of course, Sydney ‘one-upped’ Melbourne with the 2000 Games. Since the Australian people are very proud of their hometowns, you can imagine the on-going debate over which is a better city. Just through personal experience alone, I happen to prefer Melbourne. I am the first to admit this is all based on simple personal experiences and if I’d gotten a job in Sydney and had met more people there, I may feel the reverse.

It’s summertime in Melbourne and this city comes alive with moonlight movies in the park , outdoor concerts put on by the symphony, cricket matches, the Australian Open, and Melbournians just getting outdoors for the sake of getting outdoors.

I mentioned in an earlier entry how ethnically diverse this city is. Like most big cities, it’s a veritable melting pot of the world. And there is no day better to celebrate this than on Australia Day. Multiculturalism is the theme here and the live concert on Australia Day was a random mish-mash of local performers—Asian, Maori, Aboriginal, Spaniards, right down to the “robot man” known as—get this—the Sonic Manipulator, who literally is a well known street performer here. Sounds like the next Arnold Schwarzenegger flick—today the California Governator, tomorrow the Sonic Manipulator.

Just like everywhere else I’ve lived, the weather here is the butt of many jokes and is known for its changeable conditions. Here, they always say, “four seasons in one day.” One morning it can soar into the 100s and then later that afternoon it’s 60 degrees and rainy. This January’s 43.9ºC (111ºF) day broke a record and was Melbourne’s hottest since 1939. I think Maria Sharapova was sweating her pants off because she was playing that day (wouldn’t all the guys like to see that?)!

Melbourne’s famous tramway system is the largest outside of Europe and the fourth largest in the world. It stretches along 244 kilometers (152 miles) of track, and has 450 trams. A free city circle tour tram circles the central business district forming a ‘loop’ around it.

The mostly flat city has been named one of the best cycling cities in the world and is criss-crossed with hundreds of bike lanes and paths. Bike lanes here are marked in bright green and when I say bike lane—I really mean it—a solid line separates you from the cars and in some cases there are even traffic lights for bikes! They will soon be trying out some European style bike lanes (commonly used in Copenhagen) where the traffic lanes and bike lanes are separated by parked cars. I took advantage of this Chicago-like cycle friendly city by renting a bike for a few weeks and using it to tour around and as my main transport method to and from work. I also was lucky enough to score an excellent deal on the rental ($50 for 2 weeks instead of $25/day) thanks to the fact that all the Brunswick Street Cycle Shop guys and gals come in to the café where I work to get their lunches and coffees. Apparently TV jobs aren’t the only ones with perks!

Melbourne is often referred to as Australia’s garden city, and the state of Victoria is known as “the garden state” just like my home state of New Jersey. Melbourne is chock full of lush green spaces—The Botanic Gardens, Carlton Gardens, Fitzroy Gardens. These are all huge parks with towering trees and bricked curving paths where locals can laze the day away with a picnic of vegemite sandwiches or just play some fetch with their pooches. Sounds nice, but in actuality many are just hanging out smoking. Lots of smokers here. Cough.

Also, like many cities, there is a huge revitalization going on. The Docklands, Southgate and Crown Complexes are all new areas to eat, shop, and stroll around in what was once old industrial port and shipping yards. There is also some pretty amazing public art sprinkled throughout the city—in parks, on bridges, and on sidewalks.

One day I also swapped roles here and took a Melbourne Greeter Tour. I was a Chicago Greeter Volunteer back in Chicago for a couple years. Many cities in the world now offer this great service where a local will take around tourists for a few hours and show them their city from a real local’s perspective. On the tour we discovered one of the best and most defining characteristics of Melbourne–its “little laneways:” Degraves Lane, Hardware Lane, the Block Arcade, the Royal Arcade—these are all virtually glorified alleys that have been closed to traffic, filled with charming European-like cafes and outdoor table seating. They offer the illusion of being secret and hidden even though they are quite famous. Some are darker and narrower than others and some barely feel like much more than an alley except the fact that they lead to an inconspicuous bar—like the Croft institute that is literally at the end of a combo trash/urine-smelling, dingy, dumpster filled alley. What a challenge to get past that and know a cold drink is waiting for you at the end, even if it is in a beaker.

So, Melbourne will no doubt continue to struggle to come out from the shadow of big brother Sydney’s striking yet obvious beauty. But I like to think Melbourne’s beauty is just more ‘hidden’ and more than just skin deep. And, I think one of the reasons I like Melbourne so much is its ‘down to earth’ similarity to my adopted home and my ‘second city’…that I think is number one.

The Great Ocean Road is one of the most spectacular drives, view-wise, in Australia and is up there with the best in the world. It stretches for hundreds of kilometers along the southern edge of the state of Victoria’s rugged coastline. This curvy drive is reminiscent of the Pacific Coast Highway of California—except for one thing, here, your are driving on the left side of the road…so you may want to take care when gazing off into the ocean that you don’t ‘end up’ in the ocean. My friend Kay and I rented a car for two days and took to the open highway to experience it all for ourselves.

On one side we drove past the lush Otway Ranges and National Park filled with rainforests which contrasted much of the nation’s parched outback. We spotted wild koalas sleeping lazily up in the eucalyptus trees. They weren’t too hard to spot—just look for a big round ‘lifeless’ ball. I’m not being facetious when I call them lazy—these marsupials sleep around twenty hours a day. For the rest of their busy day, they will be munching on gum leaves, which are so toxic, the koala expends most of its body’s energy on detoxifying his lunch once it’s inside his system. They also don’t actually drink water, but get their hydration from these same leaves. This sloth-like ball of fur has an unusually small brain for its skull which is said to look like a pair of shriveled walnut halves leaving about 40% of the cranial cavity filled with fluid. It is the only animal on Earth with such a strangely reduced brain. Perhaps it is why they move so slow and seem so polite? They simply have “nothing” on their minds. The Koala needs large areas of healthy, connected forest and will travel long distances along tree corridors in search of new territory and mates. The ever-increasing human population on the coastal parts of the Australia continues to reduce these corridors due to increasing agricultural and residential the Koala here. development, forestry and road-building, marooning Koala colonies in decreasing areas of bush. Save the koala here.

On the other side of them Great Ocean Road was exactly what it was named for—the Ocean. The sight of stunning limestone cliffs, gorges, and arches carved out by crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean was awe-inspiring. The most famous and photographed of these scenic spots is the “Twelve Apostles.” These yellowish-orange rock stacks ominously sit tall in the ocean and were once part of the mainland, but thanks to natural erosion they are now each their own sea skyscraper. Only seven or eight of the twelve are actually visible from the viewing points and no one seems to know for sure if there ever really were twelve—maybe it just sounded good.

We figured once we got out of the city, the ‘funny’ driving would be quite easy since we would just be going straight for several hours and certainly tried avoiding making right turns. Driving is usually second nature to most, but not when you are, not only driving on the wrong side of the road, but also sitting on the wrong side of the car!

There were some definite things that just felt plain odd. For example, as I normally sit on the left side of the car to drive, many normal habits were backwards now and it took actual concentration just to look up and to the left into the rear-view mirror (I ended up using the side mirror a lot more than usual) and also reaching up and to the right to put on my safety belt. This one was funny because even though sitting on the right side of the car in the states means the seat belt is also behind you to the right, since I was driving, my instant reaction was to reach back and to the left where I ended up playing “air seatbelt.” Also, when in a quicker type situation like parallel parking, I tended to immediately reach down with my right hand to throw the car in reverse, but, alas, the gear shift was to my left.

The biggest, and funniest, difference of all was the fact that every time either of us went to make a turn we would instantly put on the windshield wipers by mistake because the lever for them was where our turn signal usually is! This was quite hilarious and I have to say that by the end of our journey—we had the cleanest windshield around.

The one constant in my life this year as I travel around the world is my big backpack. And like all other close companions, I’ve already established a love/hate relationship with it. It’s very hard to pack for one year. In fact, obviously, you really can’t technically pack for a year. I had to get it out of my head that I was packing for 365 days of travel. You really just have to pack for one week and remember there is a lot of laundry in my future and, of course, I can always buy something if I need it.

I’d only been on the road a few weeks and already sent one care package home of extra clothes that I just didn’t need and now, four months in, I’ve bought a few new shirts (re-wearing the same 6 over and over gets old real quick) and plan to give away some others and a pair of sandals in exchange. One thing you always have is a limit—there is just so much I can stuff into my backpack with out the seams starting to burst.

It’s nice to not have TOO many clothes, but I do miss having a bit more variety. But for the first time I really feel like I’m certainly getting the most out of my clothes and shoes.

Packing and unpacking my bag has become one of my new tasks in life. It’s not exactly fun, but I just need to remember it’s replacing things like working 8+ hour days, riding the train for an hour to and from work, vacuuming, unloading the dishwasher (okay, sorry, that’s a bad example since I was super lucky to even have a dishwasher in the first place), etc. The part that makes my obsessively neat side happy is the separate Ziploc-type air-releasing clothes bags I brought. Not only do they help to keep all my clothes compressed, my favorite part is how they keep my garments organized—pants in one bag, shirts in another, and the under-things in a third. This makes life a whole lot easier when you have to crash at one place for just one night. Love these.

My backpack is what they call a convertible. Oooh yeah, put the top down! No, it has wheels and an extendable handle so you can roll it, but also has a flap in back that unzips to reveal some straps and a waist belt so you can hoist it onto your back when necessary. So far, I’ve been wondering if I should’ve just bought the regulation huge backpack I see on nearly every traveler I meet. With mine it seemed more like I was strapping a huge suitcase to my back. Fortunately there have been only a few times I actually have had to wear “big red” like a backpack. Boarding a boat taxi in Costa Rica in knee deep water was one of them. Another was in Chile hobbling over a rocky road which became a rocky sidewalk which just turned into a grassy steep hill that led to my hostel with the great view, but the very sweat-inducing and nearly impossible access. Normally I have to actually sit down to strap my pack to my back. Here some old leathery Chilean woman had to help me hoist the forty pound monstrosity on to my tired disoriented body.

But, fortunately, I have already received the always welcomed approval from some fellow backpackers. A girl from Switzerland was admiring my pack in Costa Rica and loved how it opened like a suitcase instead of a rucksack like hers where she had to put everything in through the top and therefore had to dump out the contents anytime she needed to get at something and, inevitably, that ‘something’ was bound to be all the way at the bottom. Plus it is made by Victorinox—the famous Swiss Army Knife Company. It’s not exactly ‘razor-sharp,’ but the name brand also helped woo her Swiss praise.

The big red pack comes with a separate but attachable smaller day pack. This I use just as it says—on day trips to carry my camera, rain jacket and other possibly important daily necessities like ‘womanly items’ or my cool compass/flashlight/thermometer/magnifying glass tool. You never know when you will suddenly be lost in the dark and need to know the temperature and have to read some fine print!

Things I Brought that I Love:

• Packable Rain Jacket
• Laptop
• Camera
• Big hair clip
• Nylon shorts and pants with zip pockets
• Sleep Sack (only used it once so far, but it saved me from some pretty rank sheets)
• Micro Fiber Mini Towel
• Duct Tape (patched up holey screen to keep out pesky Costa Rican mosquitoes—but as most of you remember it did not help with the ant situation)
• Umbrella (this is, of course, already broken, but my next one will be just as cherished)
• Chapstick with SPF protection
• Hiking Boots & Walking Sandals

Things I don’t need:

• A full set of Encyclopedias
• My car
• My U.S. State Quarter Collection
• A beach ball
• A little, cuddly wallaby (oh, but I’d sure love to have one!)

See the “How LL” page for more details on what I brought and how a world tour is planned.

Sadly, since writing this, I lost my cool thermometer-slash-compass. Or it was stolen? I think the latter. I mean who wants a laptop when you can have a cool gizmo like that?