Literally translating to ‘household of three’,  Ménage à trois, may happen to be some people’s favorite borrowed phrase from the French language.  I snapped this shot in the St Germaine section of Paris, and it seems to capture the (ironic) essence of the French in one split second.   What would your caption be?

Paris, France

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This weekend marks Memorial Day in the United States.   Officially it is a Federal holiday commemorating U.S. soldiers who died during military service.  Unofficially, it also marks a start to the summer season here with a day off of work, barbecues, beach days, and parties.   Just one week later is the anniversary of D-Day.  This is a shot I took in Normandy, France at the D-Day beaches. During WWII,  the Allied forces stormed these beaches in what was the largest land and sea invasion in history with more than 160,000 troops.  An estimated 425,000 German and Allied soldiers were killed, wounded, or went missing that day.  In the end, the bloody invasion succeeded in bringing the allies closer to the western border of Germany and an ultimate end to the war that could have gone the other way with a very scary outcome for Europe and the rest of the world.

Barbed Wire
Normandy, France

It’s winter. Have you planned your ski trip yet?

The Alps
Chamonix-Mont Blanc, France

Two years ago, I spent a lovely week in south-eastern France with my friends Leyla and Ann in a small town about an hour from the Swiss border.  They showed me around nearby towns including the famous Chamonix (sham-oh-NEE)–known for it’s beautiful peaks and popular ski resort.

Chamonix was the site of the first Winter Olympics in 1924.  Mont Blanc, which is nearly 16,000 feet high (4800 meters), is the third most visited natural site in the world.  This area is famous for a number of outdoor sports including mountain climbing, extreme skiing, ice climbing and rafting.  While I didn’t participate in any of that, I did ride up the cable car up to the summit of Aiguille du Midi.  When it was built in 1955, it was the highest cable car in the world.

Greetings from Paris! Wish you were here!

This shot reminds me of an old postcard. Nearly any photo from Europe that you take in black and white can easily evoke a feeling of an earlier era since so many of the buildings are at least one hundred years old.

Paris’s Gare du Nord (North Station) was originally built in 1864 and remodeled into the building you see here in 1889.  It is one of six major train stations connecting Paris with all of France and beyond on the French SNCF train line.

Paris was the very first city I arrived in during my first trip to Europe. Now I’ve been there about four times and I still in awe of its charms.

Gare Du Nord
Paris, France

The bicycle. To many Americans, it is a fun hunk of recreational metal. To others around the world, it is a vital and necessary means of transport. Slowly, as the industrial nations begin to feel the consequences of the 20^th century marvel that is the automobile, more and more of us are ‘taking to the streets’ on our bikes. I sold my car before I left to travel the world and now that I am back, my two means of transport: bicycle and public transport.

Cities around the United States are finally becoming more bike friendly by making roads more people friendly and not just ‘made for cars.’ Even Google Maps recently added a ‘by bicycle’ option when plotting out directions. I use this often in Chicago.  Google’s Midwest manager of global communications and public affairs said, “Maps have (for the most part) been made for cars. We wanted to make maps for people.”

Google takes into account hills, routes that are better for biking, and neighborhoods.

When I travel, I join up with a bike tour whenever possible. In my opinion, there is no better way to get an overview (and often an ‘otherview,’ seeing off-the-beaten-path sights) of a new city.  Not only is it a more interactive way to get to know a city, if you take one the first few days of your arrival, it helps you get your bearings for the rest of your visit.

Bike tours I’ve taken during my travels over the last several years:

• Chicago — Chicago Cycling Club
• Arizona
• Montreal
• Cotopaxi, Ecuador
• Buenos Aires
• Sydney
• Melbourne
• Vietnam — Intrepid Travel
• Budapest
• Krakow
• Munsterland, Germany
• Berlin — Fat Tire
• Berlin II — Berlin on Bike
• Paris — Fat Tire

Chicago has really beefed up its bicycling resume over the last decade. It doesn’t hurt that “da Mayor” is a cycling fan and has helped push the installation of hundred of more bike racks and the creation of dozens more biking lanes all over the city streets.  And Chicago events like this weekend’s annual Bike the Drive, during which Lake Shore Drive,  the city’s major artery along the lakefront, is closed to all automobile traffic all morning and thousands take to the street to enjoy one of Chicago’s most beautiful drives, really put cycling into the spotlight.

In many parts of Asia, the bicycle is still the formidable and much more affordable vehicle upon which citizens get themselves to and from work.  In no other place to me was this more evident that Vietnam, where bikes outnumber cars about 3 to 1.  Cities in Europe have longtime embraced the bike. In Amsterdam, my Dutch friends happily hopped on their bikes and joined the masses, carrying them everywhere.   My friend, Vibeke, even straddled her ‘chariot’ to get her to a big fancy charity gala cloaked in a dress, heels, and all.   In Sweden, bikes are the norm and my friend Paula glides through the streets with aplomb no matter what the weather.

But no other country, I’ve been to has got it down to a science like France.  Lyon, France began a Vélo’v public bicycle rental program in May 2005.  Vélib’, French for free bicycle or bicycle freedom, is now a mainstay of urban travel across France with tens of thousands of self-service bikes made available throughout the country.  In other French cities like Paris, Toulouse, and several others, these city-wide bike renting systems are now in place allowing you to rent a bike for an hour or the day and return it to any number of stations scattered all around the city. So in essence you can ride a bike to work and leave it at another station and not worry about locking it up or having it stolen. All you need is a credit card and usually the first 30 minutes are free with a deposit or weekly fee. I used the bikes in Lyon and loved it. The system couldn’t be more perfect and organized. I had a free bike and before my 30 minutes were up, I would come across another bike station and could return the bike or even take out a new one for another 30 minutes to return that one somewhere else. Genius!

Even big US city mayors like Michael Bloomberg of New York City and our very own bicycle guy, Mayor Daley have visited the city of lights to check out this innovative program.  If you can, take to the streets and think of your bike as more than a once-a-month recreational pastime. Ride it out to meet friends, ride it to the supermarket (like I did today and stuffed my backpack chock full of fruits and veggies), or ride it to work. You will get their faster than waiting in rush hour traffic, you will save money on gas, and you will feel good.

Some Chicago Bike links:

• City of Chicago Bicycling Program
• Active Transportation Alliance – Chicgoland’s voice for better biking, walking, & transit
• The Chainlink – Chicago Bicyclist Resource
• Chicago Cycling Club — FREE bike tours all over Chicago
• Bike the Drive – Sign up now…takes place May 31^st!
• McDonald’s Cycle Center – One of the country’s largest bike parking facilities
• Wrigley Field Free Bike Valet – Free awesomeness!
• L.A.T.E. Ride – July 10^th/11th
• Boulevard Lakefront Tour –  August 29th
• Chicago Critical Mass – Bikes take over the streets the last Friday of every month
• Bobby’s Bike Hike – City bike tours
• Fork and the Road — Biking AND eating tours!

What did we ever do before the internet? Well, the same thing we did without VCRs (and now DVRs), mobile phones, and microwaves. We went to the library and looked things up in the encyclopedia and we watched less TV and we called people when we got home. We lived like normal and we were just fine.

And before I had this blog, I still traveled.  Up to now I have been to about 43 of the US States and about 45 countries.  I have decided to post some of these trips here so I can basically have a more complete list of my travels all in one place…and also so people can stop asking why I haven’t gone to Greece or Japan, when in fact I have, it was just B.B. (before blog).

• My First Trip Abroad

In 1996, I met my college friend Katie in Europe for my very first trip abroad.  For 3 weeks, we backpacked from Paris to Rome, Florence, Venice, and Pompeii, to Zermatt and Lucerne in  Switzerland and finished in London. It was quite a whirlwind. I was amazed, awed, scared, anxious, shocked, and simply delighted.  I remember our very first night we had already befriended another traveler (a solo girl from San Diego) and drank a bottle of wine literally on a Parisian rooftop (we climbed out our tiny hotel room window).  It was amazing and exciting and yet I remember feeling scared and homesick. What was I doing? Why was I here? It’s hard to believe now as I look back how far I have come and  all the traveling I have done since that first night when I felt so very far away.

I was definitely out of my comfort zone and not exactly sure what I was in for. But, just like now, I realized I just needed a day to acclimate and then, boom! I fell in love. The streets of Paris amazed me. The history everywhere you looked; the luscious architecture; the cafe life; the fresh breads and pastries. My first European train ride through the French countryside literally reminded me of  “Snoopy vs. the Red Baron.” The animated countryside of rolling green hills dotted with stone farmhouses and cypress trees was right here before me in real life. I couldn’t get over the buildings of ancient Rome – narrow lanes of old buildings and shops, then BAM, you turn a corner and your jaw drops as the huge Pantheon reveals itself. Or you come face-to-face with the Colosseum still standing after nearly 2000 years. It is still mind-boggling to me to this day. I remember seeing Mt. Vesuvius and the ancient city of Pompeii. It was amazing and a much bigger town than I even imagined; shops, homes, and people wiped out in an instant.

Switzerland dazzled me with its perfectly quaint alpine homes decked with flower boxes bursting with hardy, chromatic petunias. I was in love with its efficiency, cleanliness, and perfection – a stark contrast to Italy’s craziness, bustle, and messy passion. I liked a little of both and figured my dream home would be somewhere near Lake Como and the alps of northern Italy, not far from the Switzerland border…the best of both worlds.

London was our final stop and, at the time, the least interesting. Perhaps it was because I was exhausted. Perhaps it was because everyone spoke English and it was like being back home. About ten years later I would be back in London for a month and would come to love it much more and get to know its great neighborhoods and fun, charming people.

After my trip, I made a new life goal – to go abroad somewhere every year during my vacation time.  And I did just that.*

*It didn’t hurt that in the ‘old days’ (read: 1998) of my job at ABC7 in Chicago, we  had this amazing deal with United Airlines for approximately 40% off international fares. Unfortunately, like all good things, it didn’t last. But it allowed me to travel abroad for cheap for the first few years at least. Yay, perks!

• 1998 – Return to Italy with Joe (Siena, Rome, Sorrento/Amalfi Coast)
• 1999 – Germany & France with Susan (Heidelberg, Rothenberg, Munich, Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria, Strasbourg, Paris)
• 2000 – Ireland with David & Shannon
• 2001 – Europe Trip with Mark – 3 weeks and my first time traveling alone for just half the time  (Barcelona, Nice, Cinque Terre, Lake Como, Bolzano, Salzburg, Innsbruck, Prague)
• 2002 – Canada Road Trip with Andy (Toronto, Niagara Falls, Ottawa, Montreal, Quebec)
• 2003 – Greece with Andy (Athens, Santorini, Mykonos)
• 2004 – Croatia with Andy & his mom (Zagreb, Split, Brac, Dubrovnik, quick wrong turn into Bosnia)
• 2004 – Cayman Islands with Andy and ABC7 Crew
• 2004 – Mexico for work with ABC7 Crew
• 2005 – Tokyo, Japan with Mark
• 2006 – Montreal, Canada for work with ABC7 Crew
• 2006 -2010    World Tour Begins!   (((inhale)))   Costa Rica, Ecuador, Chile, Buenos Aires, New Zealand, Australia, Hong Kong, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Singapore, Dubai, Turkey, Romania, Slovakia, Hungary, Poland, Germany, Amsterdam, Spain, Sweden, London, Wales, NYC, Chicago, LA, NYC, France, Italy, Egypt, Jordan, Israel, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Stockholm, Paris, NYC, Virginia, Colorado, New Jersey, Chicago, LA, New Jersey, Chicago. ((((exhale))))

It’s time to dip into the recipe file for another scrum-sha-delicious treat from the road. This tasty pick was lovingly prepared for me by my good friend Audrey in Paris. Audrey and I met though Couchsurfing when she hosted me in the fall of 2008 at the start of my second leg of travel. During the first visit we’d snacked on some of my favorite food: local charcuterie (smoked/cured meats), fromage (cheese, glorious cheese), and a fresh, crusty baguette from her neighborhood  boulangerie (bakery) just across the street.   She and her cat Eros were great hosts so I returned in the spring before my return flight to New Jersey at the end of the grand world tour.  She whipped up this little dish – from one of her mom’s (who lives in Brittany) recipes. Merci Audrey!

Jacqueline’s Coquilles St. Jacques a la crème avec riz (Creamed Scallops with Rice)

• Shallots
• Garlic
• Butter
• Scallops
• Parsley
• Whisky or white wine
• Curry (optional)

Sauté shallots and garlic in butter. Add scallops. Simmer 3-5 minutes. Add Whiskey or wine.
Simmer again and allow liquid to evaporate.
Add a bit of cream. Season to taste.
Plate over white rice.

Bon Appétit!

Whatever you call it: café, coffee, espresso, café latte, or just a ‘cup of joe,’ coffee has been drunk for centuries and varies depending on the species of coffee plant the bean comes from – a misnomer for seed (arabica, robusta, etc.) – and the type of roast (Italian, French, American, etc.). It was discovered originally in Ethiopia, spread through Arabia into Turkey and eventually to the thriving trade port in Venice. Today coffee drinks are big business and, for better or worse, a cup of coffee has become part of the uniform of the American worker (and an eco-disaster). Noted as one of the world’s largest, most valuable, legally traded commodities after oil, coffee has become a vital cash crop for many Third World countries. Brazil is the world leader in production of green coffee, followed by Vietnam and Colombia. Of course with all this demand comes big ecological impacts as well. A major issue concerning coffee is its use of water. According to New Scientist, it takes about 140 liters of water to grow the coffee beans needed to produce one cup of coffee and coffee is often grown in countries where there is a water shortage.

The concept of fair trade labeling, which guarantees coffee growers a negotiated pre-harvest price, began in Europe in the ’60s.  Fairtrade is about better prices, decent working conditions, local sustainability, and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers in the developing world. By requiring companies to pay sustainable prices (which must never fall below the market price), Fairtrade addresses the injustices of conventional trade, which traditionally discriminates against the poorest, weakest producers. It enables them to improve their position and have more control over their lives.

The production and consumption of “Fair Trade Coffee” has grown in recent years as some local and national coffee chains have started to offer fair trade alternatives. Starbucks, one of the largest buyers of Fair Trade Certified coffee, will double its purchases to 40 million pounds in 2009, making the company the largest purchaser of Fair Trade Certified coffee in the world.   A number of studies have shown that fair trade coffee has a positive impact on the communities that grow it by strengthening producer organizations, improving returns to small producers, and positively affecting their quality of life. The families of fair trade producers were also more stable than those who were not involved in fair trade, and their children had better access to education.

I used to never drink the stuff; all through high school, university, and through my twenties – not a drop. After the Starbucks craze (and, in case you don’t live in the US, there are also many independent cafes and coffee bars in the US) I was sucked in just a little and would maybe treat myself to a few coffees each month. And since I wasn’t a true coffee drinker, these were, of course, the frou frou coffee ‘concoctions’ of Starbucks – like a mocha (espresso with a shot of chocolate syrup…for me minus the whipped cream). Now as I’ve traveled around the world and through Europe, my coffee and thus caffeine intake has dramatically increased – for a few reasons. First, when you are walking around towns and cities for months…you simply need something to do when you ‘take a break.’ And, of course, there are all these inviting cafes lining the streets beckoning you in with happy patrons laughing while they sip a cappuccino. So it was nice for me to join in. Plus if I sat down and ate something every time I wanted to take a break, I’d be as big as a house. Next, I did actually start to appreciate the taste and differences of coffees around the world. From the surprising, yet good, café culture in Melbourne, Australia (where I worked as a barista) and the chains of Asia to the less-than-stellar instant coffee commonly served up in Eastern Europe and the pleasing café au lait of France and rich espressos in Italy. In fact, the more coffee I drink, the less milk I add. I’ve gone from a crazy Starbucks caramel macchiato (not the real macchiato—an espresso ‘stained’ with a drop of milk) to a simple, yet robust, real Italian espresso (in 3 sips you’re done). I used to never order an espresso thinking it was too strong and dark for me, but I have to tell you, these are delicious.

The one coffee I just could not force myself to like is Turkish. For me, it’s just too strong. The grounds are left in the cup which makes for a bit of a sludgy beverage. But the after show is nice…having someone read your fortune in the bottom of your cup. Maybe mine would say, ‘you are drinking too much coffee.’ Well, probably not since the fortuneteller probably gets kick backs from the establishment.

As I’ve written before, there are many stereotypes about Americans. Some people know us from living in or visiting the United States; others think they know us from the myriad of good quality, but often unrealistic American television shows and movies that make their way around the globe to a theater far from you. But, of course, in the same vein, we hear many misconceptions and stereotypes about other cultures, possibly none more so than the French.  We seem to dream and fantasize about Paris, but are supposed to hate the French.  We love French fries, French kissing, and French films, but are ‘told’ the French are rude and unfriendly. Just as so many foreigners believe untrue things about Americans as a whole without ever having visited the United States, many Americans (and others around the world) have cultivated a not-so-nice view of the French without ever having set foot in France.  Well, I am here to tell you that in my unscientific and simple personal experiences – ten years ago during my first trip to France and now – nearly all of the French people I have met have been nothing but cordial, friendly, and sweet. We all know that what you put ‘out there’ is a big determinant of what you get in return, and whether you’re in Chicago or Paris, a sincere smile and a ‘thank you’ or ‘merci’ goes a long way.

Here are just a few examples of the encounters I had with virtual strangers I met during my time in the home of “Marianne.”

My first day in Paris I was staying with Herbert, a friendly, hospitable couchsurfing host (who even picked me up at the airport…a rare treat) in the working class neighborhood around Montmartre. I left his apartment to go for a morning jog and bumped into a neighbor in the courtyard. “Bonjour!” he said with that lovely French ‘sing-songy’ lilt. He spoke some Spanish which was easier for both of us and we proceeded to walk together out of the courtyard to the street corner. Then he directed me to a canal which was a good place to go running – a run I was now more energized to do after this nice exchange.

Another fine afternoon in Paris I was at a supermarket buying some yummy fromage and charcuterie (ham, salami, etc.) with my new friend Audrey, for a nice picnic style dinner. The bubbly, rotund French woman who worked at the deli counter literally couldn’t stop saying how much she liked the United States. She goes on a trip there nearly every year and said she wished she was wearing one of her many American souvenir t-shirts (‘I Love NY’, etc.). She said this year she would be going on a trip to Chicago. The funny thing is she barely spoke any English (all this was translated to me by Audrey) and yet she still has a great time in the U.S., a fact that I find interesting considering the lack of French-speaking Americans I know – none. But, for a bit longer than we would have liked, she regaled us with tales of her former visits while continuing to stuff us full of free samples of rillettes du porc, saucisson, et fromage.

In the cute city of Nantes, another couchsurfing host, Maela invited me to join her at a friend’s birthday party. I was a total stranger who didn’t speak much French and yet her friends went out of their way to make me feel at home and were all open, friendly, and fun. They spoke their best English with me and by the end of the night I felt like one of the gang.

For nearly a week, I had the good fortune to leave my bag on the floor and relax in the tiny middle of nowhere town of Bias (it’s an hour and a half south of Bordeaux and hour and a half north of the Spanish border). My British friend Caroline was staying here pet sitting for her cousin who was off on holiday. We rode our bikes to the beach, cooked yummy meals, and relaxed in their cabin-like home in front of a toasty roaring fire – just 2 girls living the quiet countryside life. For me, it was great to relax, leave my bag unpacked, and stay stationary for a bit.  My first night there, we met the neighbors over the fence, with whom moments later, I was playing lawn tennis. Then they proceeded to invite us over for wine and nibbles. Keep in mind – they spoke zero English and yet we spent three nights out of six drinking, nibbling, and laughing with them. I will never forget their wonderful hospitality for the two ‘out of their element’ English girls next door.

I am on a shiny, fast train heading toward shiny, efficient Geneva.  As we ride the rails, we go through woods ablaze with fall colors-bright yellows, flaming reds, and pumpkin oranges. The undulating green French countryside has given way to granite rocky hills signaling we are entering Alp country. There is something about the Alpine country that I love – the crispness in the air, the clean oxygen in my lungs, and the cute flower-box adorned homes clinging to the green hillsides.

But what was I doing in Geneva? I hadn’t planned on a visit to Switzerland – one of the most expensive countries on the planet where a Starbucks cappuccino literally costs $7.  I was actually just here for a few hours to be picked up by new friends working at the UN Headquarters here. You may be sick of me talking about new friends, but I can not stress enough how this is the most amazing and wonderful part about travel. I met Leyla through my website when she emailed a comment about my post of the reverse culture shock some travelers feel when they return home after a long journey. She, too, has her own travel website, called Women on the Road and we kept in touch over the months through emails and she even interviewed me for her site.  She lives in France not too far from the Swiss border and told me if I ever was in France I should stop by. Well, you know me…so that’s just what I did.

Leyla and her partner, Anne, live in an amazing, renovated (work in progress) farmhouse near Seyssel, a small town about an hour southwest of Geneva. I was excited to meet them. And I had no idea how old they were or what they looked like. I kind of like that. It’s great developing relationships just through words/thoughts (in emails) and not having any preconceived notions or judgments because of how a person looks – their age, sex, race…whatever.

I spent a lovely week at their home. We drove around the beautiful surrounding areas all under surrounded by the amazing back drop of the Alps and Mont Blanc.

They took me to Chamonix where I ascended the incredible, Aiguille du Midi at 12,600 feet, The views were fantastic. Jagged snow-capped peaks pierce the cobalt sky and in wintertime the place is mobbed with skiers schussing down the mountain side.  After my short time at the frozen summit, my altitude-challenged lungs were ready for sea level and my stomach was ready for lunch.   Luckily back down in town Anne and Leyla were waiting to take me for the local specialty-raclette (from French: to scrape). You are basically served a mini charcoal grill sitting on its side like a birdcage of briquettes with a tasty hunk of cheese positioned in front of it. As it melts, you scrape the gooey goodness onto to the accompanying bread or potatoes. And enjoy with the plate of charcuterie of salamis and similar. Yummy.

We also took in Annecy, an absolutely charming medieval town (and one of the most appealing I’d been to in France)…with the quintessential cobblestone pedestrian lanes filled chock-a-block with shops, cafes, and strolling inhabitants.

Some other local musts I partook in: chowing down on garlic and butter soaked frogs legs and enjoying Seyssel’s annual town fair – with bric-a-brac to buy, foods to sample…and the odd cow or chicken for sale. Moo.

And to top it all off, Leyla took me to the local Sunday Bingo game. It doesn’t get less touristy than this. You can picture it – the local community center with a high pitched ceiling supported by sturdy wood beams, long tables at which random locals sat averaging the age of 75, and a table against a wall with locally baked goodies to buy – the proceeds going to some local charity.   After several hours, Leyla and her lucky cards brought her good fortune in the name of a frying pan, a gift basket filled with edible goodies, and even a vacuum cleaner. Like Charlie Brown, all I got was rocks.  I got nothing. Actually, I did benefit from the three-hour lesson of French numbers. Now I can count to 100 in French. Well, more accurately, 99-Bingo cards only have one or two digits.