Turkey


I was recently nominated by the Trip Base Travel Blog to possibly be a part of their E-book on best kept travel secrets.

They are compiling this amazing list from travelers near and far of great travel tips, lesser known destinations, and hidden gem restaurants or hotels. Of course, as with any list like this, any ‘gem’ will no longer be so secret. But, alas, that is the way of today’s information age, I suppose.

So here goes. Here are three of my best kept travel secrets…soon to be not so secret anymore. You can also see more of my own tips here and soon here on my ‘Ever-Expanding Tips’ page.

1. Destination: Bozcaada Island, Turkey (pronounced: bose-jah-dah)

Akvariyum Beach 4 300x225 My Best Kept Travel Secrets

This tiny island off the west coast of Turkey is one of only two inhabited Turkish islands in the Aegean amidst a sea of Greek Isles. It is a dry, yellow-hued scrubby little island with picturesque wine vineyards blanketing its sunny slopes. It has a charming cobblestoned main village that is filled with mostly locals and thankfully really isn’t a big stop on the tourist trail. The main industries are fishing, tourism, and wine production. The population is mostly Turkish but there are still about 30 ethnic Greeks living here.

Sunset at Windfarm 7 225x300 My Best Kept Travel Secrets

It’s a great escape from Istanbul and just ‘off the beaten path’ enough to be an island of mostly vacationing locals and not the hordes of tourists going to the other islands in the Aegean Sea. Gorgeous blue waters, tasty local fare & wine, and lots of sun. Ah, the simple life.

2. Travel Tip: Most Credit Cards (including highly publicized ‘travel’ card, American Express) charge you a fee if you charge something in a different currency. I use Capitol One which (at the time of this writing) does NOT charge a fee or percentage. What’s in your wallet?!

3. Great, off-the-beaten-path Hotel: Inn-Berlin

Sleep Inn 1 300x200 My Best Kept Travel Secrets

This small hotel in hip Berlin is shiny, bright, modern, and spotless, and its owners, Ralph and Yvonne, are extremely friendly and helpful.

The rooms are bright and clean, and all have fluffy down comforters encased in colorful duvets. The style is Ikea-minimal with clean lines. Rooms have cool and whimsical murals on their walls, and most importantly, they all come with their very own good-luck gnomes!

Sleep Inn 4 300x200 My Best Kept Travel Secrets

The Inn-Berlin is located a bit north of central Berlin, but the trip to most of the city’s main districts can be made in just fifteen minutes on either the U-Bahn or S-Bahn.

**As requested my Trip Base…I now tag and nominate these five bloggers to share their best travel secrets on their blogs: 360 in 356, Lives of Wander, Killing Batteries, Ms Traveling Pants, Travel Betty.



There is no way I could just be a tourist in the world for 2 ½ years.  I knew I had to mix it up to prevent boredom and burnout. I craved variety in my everyday life, so why would my life on the road be any different? Yes, of course, the constant change of scenery, culture, and people was variety in and of itself, but I knew I couldn’t just keep showing up in a new town each week and essentially continue to ‘walk around the world for a year.’  I needed to do, ya know, stuff. I needed to immerse myself somehow in society and feel like a part of it.  To start this process, I did different things like a Spanish Immersion program in Costa Rica (Spanish lessons in the morning and yes, surfing lessons in the afternoon) or a two-week, several-hundred mile bicycle trip down the length of Vietnam. But I needed even more structure. I needed…a job (cue shrieking horror music).

Now, just the sheer fact that I decided to blog about my trip and also write travel articles to be published elsewhere means that I was already working. I was trying to make time each week to sit and just write – a very hard thing to do when you are sitting in Rome or Cairo or Hong Kong and there are so many things around you vying for your attention.

Besides my new ‘day job’ as travel writer and photographer, I landed a few other actual jobs around the world.

  1. Barrista and sandwich maker at a café in Melbourne
  2. TV producer and reporter in Chile
  3. Private business English tutor in Istanbul
  4. Media proofreader in Istanbul
  5. Actress in American Feature film in Istanbul
  6. Research Assistant at the University of Cologne helping conduct an International survey on Airline/Airport Relationships
  7. Writer and proofreader at publishing company in Berlin
  8. Publicist for English Immersion company in Madrid
  9. Extra in Hollywood
  10. Pet Sitter around the world (Istanbul, LA, Chicago)

But many have asked me how did I find all these jobs? Did I look before I went on my trip?  The simple answer is no.  I simply arrived in a new place with the random idea that I could maybe find work there. In Australia, I spoke the language (sort of), so it seemed like a natural place to find a job other than teaching English. In Turkey, it’s all about connections and once I met one person…the ball just started rolling.  Besides that, I used persistence, word-of-mouth, and friends’ connections and a lot of smiles.

So, on this adventure, I worked all over and found it to be another great way to “go local.”  I lived in one place for an extended amount of time. I had a place to live. I took public transport (or a bicycle in Melbourne) to work. I had a schedule. I had a paycheck (well, cash). I truly felt like part of the fabric of society. And I actually gained some new skills, but most importantly I made real friends.

To hear more about my working around the world, listen to this podcast interview I did for Chris Christensen at the Amateur Traveler.

Amateur Traveler Episode 194 – Work and Travel Around the World



wwwpdphotoorg 150x150 Got Coffee?Whatever you call it: café, coffee, espresso, café latte, or just a ‘cup of joe,’ coffee has been drunk for centuries and varies depending on the species of coffee plant the bean comes from – a misnomer for seed (arabica, robusta, etc.) – and the type of roast (Italian, French, American, etc.). It was discovered originally in Ethiopia, spread through Arabia into Turkey and eventually to the thriving trade port in Venice. Today coffee drinks are big business and, for better or worse, a cup of coffee has become part of the uniform of the American worker (and an eco-disaster). Noted as one of the world’s largest, most valuable, legally traded commodities after oil, coffee has become a vital cash crop for many Third World countries. Brazil is the world leader in production of green coffee, followed by Vietnam and Colombia. Of course with all this demand comes big ecological impacts as well. A major issue concerning coffee is its use of water. According to New Scientist, it takes about 140 liters of water to grow the coffee beans needed to produce one cup of coffee and coffee is often grown in countries where there is a water shortage.

The concept of fair trade labeling, which guarantees coffee growers a negotiated pre-harvest price, began in Europe in the ’60s.  Fairtrade is about better prices, decent working conditions, local sustainability, and fair terms of trade for farmers and workers in the developing world. By requiring companies to pay sustainable prices (which must never fall below the market price), Fairtrade addresses the injustices of conventional trade, which traditionally discriminates against the poorest, weakest producers. It enables them to improve their position and have more control over their lives.

The production and consumption of “Fair Trade Coffee” has grown in recent years as some local and national coffee chains have started to offer fair trade alternatives. Starbucks, one of the largest buyers of Fair Trade Certified coffee, will double its purchases to 40 million pounds in 2009, making the company the largest purchaser of Fair Trade Certified coffee in the world.   A number of studies have shown that fair trade coffee has a positive impact on the communities that grow it by strengthening producer organizations, improving returns to small producers, and positively affecting their quality of life. The families of fair trade producers were also more stable than those who were not involved in fair trade, and their children had better access to education.

I used to never drink the stuff; all through high school, university, and through my twenties – not a drop. espresso 150x150 Got Coffee?After the Starbucks craze (and, in case you don’t live in the US, there are also many independent cafes and coffee bars in the US) I was sucked in just a little and would maybe treat myself to a few coffees each month. And since I wasn’t a true coffee drinker, these were, of course, the frou frou coffee ‘concoctions’ of Starbucks – like a mocha (espresso with a shot of chocolate syrup…for me minus the whipped cream). Now as I’ve traveled around the world and through Europe, my coffee and thus caffeine intake has dramatically increased – for a few reasons. First, when you are walking around towns and cities for months…you simply need something to do when you ‘take a break.’ And, of course, there are all these inviting cafes lining the streets beckoning you in with happy patrons laughing while they sip a cappuccino. So it was nice for me to join in. Plus if I sat down and ate something every time I wanted to take a break, I’d be as big as a house. Next, I did actually start to appreciate the taste and differences of coffees around the world. From the surprising, yet good, café culture in Melbourne, Australia (where I worked as a barista) and the chains of Asia to the less-than-stellar espressoorcappuccino 150x150 Got Coffee?instant coffee commonly served up in Eastern Europe and the pleasing café au lait of France and rich espressos in Italy. In fact, the more coffee I drink, the less milk I add. I’ve gone from a crazy Starbucks caramel macchiato (not the real macchiato—an espresso ‘stained’ with a drop of milk) to a simple, yet robust, real Italian espresso (in 3 sips you’re done). I used to never order an espresso thinking it was too strong and dark for me, but I have to tell you, these are delicious.

The one coffee I just could not force myself to like is Turkish. For me, it’s just too strong. The grounds are left in the cup which makes for a bit of a sludgy beverage. But the after show is nice…having someone read your fortune in the bottom of your cup. Maybe mine would say, ‘you are drinking too much coffee.’ Well, probably not since the fortuneteller probably gets kick backs from the establishment.



smithsonian Snapshot: IstanbulIf you’ve been reading along, you may remember I spent a few months living and teaching English in Istanbul last year.  It was an amazing city that left an indelible mark on my soul. I recently sold some photographs and another article to the Smithsonian on Istanbul. Check it out here and be sure to click on the photo gallery.

With a skyline studded with domes and minarets, Istanbul is one of the truly great romantic cities. In around ayasofya 3 1 1 150x150 Snapshot: IstanbulTurkey’s largest city, the continents of Europe and Asia come together as West meets East, separated only by the 18 miles of the Bosporus Strait that stretches from the Black Sea in the north to the Sea of Marmara in the south. And in the less literal sense, on the vibrant streets of this city of 12 million people, miniskirts and trendy boots mingle with colorful Muslim head scarves and prayer beads.

Origins:

Istanbul is a treasure trove of history still being uncovered. Archaeological remains show that people have inhabited the immediate area of present-day Istanbul for tens of thousands of years. In 2008, during the construction of the new Marmaray rail tunnel (connecting the European and Asian sides of Istanbul), a previously unknown settlement dating from 6500 BC has been discovered.  In its long history, Istanbul served as the capital city of the Roman Empire (330-395), the Byzantine Empire (395-1204 and 1261-1453), the Latin Empire (1204-1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922). The city was recently chosen as joint European Capital of Culture for 2010. Istanbul has continued to expand dramatically; today its population is approximately 13 million and increases at an estimated 700,000 immigrants per year. Industry has expanded even as tourism has grown. It continues to be a city that creates its own history at the intersection where both Continents meet.

Then and Now:

Its history traces back from Byzantium to Constantinople to its place as capital of the Ottoman Empire, the most powerful Islamic empire in the world. Today it pulsates as Turkey’s cultural heart and business center.  Urban sprawl has created an Istanbul larger in area than the state of Rhode Island and more populous than all of Greece or Belgium.  Turkey continues to be the center of news and some controversy.  In October 2005 negotiations began between Turkey and the European Union for Turkey to be considered as a possible member of the EU in the future. A conflict persists between the 20-25% Kurdish population and the Turkish government.  For many citizens, women’s dress has become an issue that defines whether a Muslim is secularist or religious. Today, many women are using head scarves as religious symbols against modern Turkish society. The head scarf issue creates lots of problems in the society and in the government between conservatives and modernists.

Appeal:

Istanbul is a jewel box of old and new. Skyscrapers and some of Europe’s largest shopping malls cater to the more affluent set while the old quarter, parts of which are on the UNESCO World Heritage List, continues to dazzle locals and tourists alike with its cobblestone streets, awe-inspiring centuries-old mosques, and the grandeur of the Topkapi Palace which was the official and primary residence of the Ottoman Sultans, from 1465 to 1853. Considered to be the world’s fourth largest cathedral, the magnificent Hagia Sofia museum was originally built by Byzantine Emperor Justinian in 537 AD.  Originally a Byzantine church and later an Ottoman mosque, this marvel is universally acknowledged as one of the great buildings of the world. In this growing city, you can explore the streets where crusaders once marched; admire mosques that are the most sublime architectural expressions of Islamic piety; peer into the sultan’s harem; and hunt for bargains in the world’s original shopping mall, the Grand Bazaar, one of the largest covered markets in the world with more than 58 streets and 6,000 shops, and between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily.

Who goes here:

In 2007, more than twenty-seven million tourists visited Turkey. In the lively and historical city of Istanbul, there are thousands of hotels and other tourist oriented industries in the city, catering to both vacationers and visiting professionals. As one of the world’s fastest growing economies, and Turkey’s financial capital, Istanbul has also become a large center for business and business travelers. It has become one of the world’s major conference destinations and is an increasingly popular choice for the world’s leading international associations. According to Forbes magazine, Istanbul had a total of 35 billionaires as of March 2008, ranking 4th in the world behind Moscow (74 billionaires), New York City (71 billionaires) and London (36 billionaires).

Turkey’s beaches are widely popular with Europeans and Russians looking for some sun and sand. And with 5000 miles of coast stretching from the Mediterranean to the Aegean to the Black Sea (just an hour’s drive from Istanbul) there is a sandy spot for everyone.

Istanbul’s appeal among tourists is mainly a result of the vibrant cultures that have flourished in the city and the melting pot of different religions that have existed side by side throughout history.

Famous sons and daughters:

Elia Kazan (September 7, 1909 – September 28, 2003) was born Elias Kazanjoglou in the capital city of the Ottoman Empire, Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) to a Greek family. He was an Academy Award-winning film and theatre director, Tony Award-winning theatrical producer, screenwriter, novelist and cofounder of the influential Actors Studio in New York in 1947. He directed such Broadway plays as “A Streetcar Named Desire” and “Cat on a Hot Tin Roof”. He directed the film version of A Streetcar Named Desire, On the Waterfront, and many other films.

Ferit Orhan Pamuk (born June 7, 1952 in Istanbul) is a Turkish novelist and professor of comparative literature at Columbia University. Pamuk is one of Turkey’s most prominent novelists and his work has sold over seven million books in more than fifty languages, making him the country’s best-selling writer. His fourth novel, New Life, became the fastest-selling book in Turkish history.  Pamuk’s novel Kar (English translation, Snow), explores the conflict between Islamism and Westernism in modern Turkey. The New York Times listed Snow as one of its Ten Best Books of 2004.  Pamuk is the recipient of numerous national and international literary awards. He was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature in 2006, becoming the first Turkish person to receive a Nobel Prize.

Hidayet Türkoğlu, commonly referred to as Hedo Turkoglu (born March 19, 1979, in Istanbul, Turkey) is an NBA basketball player for the Orlando Magic. He stands 6 feet 10 inches tall and won the NBA’s Most Improved Player Award for the 2007-2008 NBA Season. Basketball is rapidly gaining popularity in Turkey. In fact, the Turkey national basketball team came in second in the European Basketball Championship in 2001 in Istanbul and in 2010 Istanbul will host the 2010 FIBA (International Basketball Federation) World Championship, which could introduce more Turks to the game.

Ahmet Ertegün (July 31,1923 - December 14, 2006) was the son of the Turkish Ambassador to the United States. He was born in Istanbul and moved to the United States where he became the co-founder and executive of Atlantic Records. He wrote and produced music, defined careers and changed lives. He is described as “one of the most significant figures in the modern recording industry.” By the mid 1950s, Atlantic had become the country’s preeminent R&B label producing hits by such artists as Ray Charles and the Drifters.  The “Atlantic Sound” — a boogie-based, sax-led band arrangement that became an integral part of rhythm and blues — grew into a phenomenon that swept across the nation and the world. In England, young musicians would buy records just because the Atlantic label was on the sleeve. They would grow up to become members of groups like the Rolling Stones, Cream, Led Zeppelin and Genesis.

In 1987, Ertegün was inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, of which he himself was a founder. At age 83, he was injured after a fall at a Rolling Stones performance in New York in 2006 for the 60th birthday of former US President Bill Clinton Ertegün slipped and hit his head backstage. Although he was initially in stable condition, he soon took a turn for the worse, slipping into a coma later dying with his family by his side.

Interesting Facts:

Turkey sits directly on at least three active earthquake faults. Thirteen major quakes have rocked Turkey since 1939-the latest was a 7.4 magnitude whopper in 1999 which killed more than 18,000 people.  Istanbul straddles one of the most active seismic fault lines on the globe. A few miles away beneath the Marmara Sea, the North Anatolian fault line is stirring, and scientists are predicting a major rupture within the next few decades and say the question is not ‘if’, but ‘when?’

The secular country of Turkey was founded by Mustafa Kemal Atatürk who was an army officer, revolutionary statesman, and its first President. An admirer of the Enlightenment, Atatürk instituted wide-ranging and progressive political, economic, and social reforms, transforming Turkish society from perceiving itself as Muslim subjects of a vast Empire into citizens of a modern, democratic, and secular nation-state. Atatürk also wanted to solve the literacy problem. He created a Language Commission who developed a brand new Turkish alphabet using the Roman alphabet in 1928.

The American doughnut shop operator Krispy Kreme announced in 2008 that it will franchise about 25 outlets in Istanbul that will open in the next five years.



250px imbrostenedos 2svg.thumbnail Turn Left at the GoatsAfter living nearly three months in Turkey, one of my last weekends I was able to ‘do like the locals do’ and escape the oppressive heat of Istanbul for a lovely beach getaway. Bozcaada (pronounced Boze-jada) island is one of only two inhabited Turkish islands in the Aegean amidst a sea of Greek Isles. It is a dry, yellow-hued, scrubby little island with nice little wine vineyards blanketing its sunny slopes. It has a charming cobblestoned main village that is filled with mostly locals and thankfully really isn’t a big stop on the tourist trail. My friends Ahmet and Cigdem (chee-dem) invited me to join them on the island for the weekend so I jumped at the chance to get out of the city for a couple of nights and have a small vacation. And, coincidentally, it was election weekend in Turkey so even the Turks that usually visit the island were headed back to their hometowns to exercise their right to vote making it even less crowded than normal. I took an overnight bus and left Istanbul’s huge bus station, Otogar, at the ungodly hour of 1am. Although the bus was plush and quite modern, it was still a slightly painful cramped seven hour ride especially for someone like me who has as much chance of sleeping in the sitting position as I do of sitting in the sleeping position. Chew on that for awhile.

The bus dropped me off at the ferry crossing at seven in the morning and thirty minutes later the ferry pulled up to Bozcaada where Ahmet and Cigdem picked me up after their morning swim. We drove to our tiny pension, about a fifteenpansiyon 3 4 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goats minute drive outside of the island’s main town. The Akvaryum Pansiyon (Aquarium Pension) is a cute blue and white six room affair that sits all by itself atop a hill overlooking the sparkling Aegean waters. What I thought might be an inconvenience actually turned out to be the best part—there was no electricity. Not that I even really use much—I don’t travel with a hair dryer or do much maintenance on this trip. The only things I really plug in are my cherished lap top and camera batteries. Oh, and my Turkish cell phone, which I will gladly be returning to its owner very soon. But for two days charging things wasn’t really necessary. And since the steamy hot days gave way to breezy cool, if not downright chilly, nights there was no need for a/c. Each simple tiny room was full of tea lights and candles and the grounds were staked with an assortment of tikimy cafe 1 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goats pension 2 2 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goatstorches and lanterns. It couldn’t have been more idyllic and romantic. Just a ten minute walk down a narrow dirt path through the brush was the secluded Akvariyum Beach with a few umbrellas and lounge chairs. We spent the day lazing around, going back to town to grab a bite at a cute café, justifiably called “Lisa’s,” and doing some swimming in the wonderfully clean, but icily cold sea.

On my second morning there I met a cute Dutch couple staying at our tiny pension. Eilian and Vibeke were the kind of couple who, at least from the outside, looked perfect together. They both had sandy blond hair, sun-kissed skin, and akvariyum beach 4 5 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goatskind of oozed a natural laid-back sexiness that was appealing. They were joined by a Turkish friend of theirs and invited me to tag along with them past the secluded beach and out to some rocks at an even more secluded spot. This was the stuff island dreams were made of. We had our own private spot with just enough smooth rocks to lay out on. And when you got too hot, you could slowly shock your body into the super frigid water by easing yourself in or take the more ‘rip the band-aid-right-off’ approachakvariyum beach 10 7 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goats to the cold and just hurl yourself into the sea by diving straight in. I preferred the latter. We hung out all day—snorkeling in the clear blue Aegean, sunning, chatting, munching on fruit, bread, and cheese and perfecting our dives. It was perfect. After about six hours in the sun our totally ‘hidden’ secret beach was overtaken by locals who apparently knew how to walk there too (guess it wasn’t that ‘secret’ after all). We packed up our stuff and headed back home. When I say I’ve met cool people on my trip, I don’t mean we like the same music or movies or can get drunk together. I love to laugh and have fun, akvariyum beach 5 6 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goatsbut I’m also not a 22-year-old backpacker looking for a ‘non-stop party’ spending my world tour inside the world’s bars and nightclubs trolling for hot guys like other travelers I’ve met along the way. Of course, if that’s what you love to do…more power to ya…it’s just not me. I’m talking more about a vibe or a general life attitude. They are open to the world and meeting new people. They are fun, but worldly and mature at the same time. We can sit around all day and talk about life…or just about the beautiful island we are so lucky to be enjoying. These were cool people.

That night Ahmet, Cigdem, and I grabbed a bottle of wine and headed out to watch the sunset at the far western tip of the island. We had asked the pension owner, Deniz, a blue-eyed, stocky Turk, which was the best beach to hit for the sun. I invited my new Dutch friends along and Eilian also gave his two cents about how to get to this ‘perfect beach’ to watch the sunset.goat.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goats

“Okay. You’ll drive down the main road out of town until you see some goats,” he said pointing to the map. “Turn left at the goats and you’ll get to the beach.”

“Uh-huh. So these goats are always there? They are never on the move?” I asked laughing.

sunset at windfarm 7 1 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the GoatsYou know you are off the beaten tourist trail when the directional landmarks are farm animals. We, of course, passed several groups of goats on the way not knowing which ones were ‘our’ goats. So we ended up driving down a dirt road flanked on both sides by tremendous sunset at windfarm 14 4 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goatswhirring wind turbines. This installation of seventeen giant windmills was Bozcaada’s windsunset at windfarm 10 2 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goats Turn Left at the Goats farm which provides more than enough power for the entire island (minus our hotel of course). The excess power is actually sent to the mainland via ansunset at windfarm 21 7 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goats underwater cable. I was mesmerized by the ominous and  sleek towering machines and their gentle constant humming. We found a spot to plunk down in the sand and as the giant, red sun melted into the sea we toasted to new friends and my continued healthy and happy travels.  Şerefe (cheers)!

pension 3 3 1.thumbnail Turn Left at the Goats Meanwhile, back at the ranch…our pension was the only building anywhere for a few kilometers…and because it was “unplugged”, there were absolutely no lights around to drown out the night sky. I have never seen so many stars in all my life. It was spectacular. I think the only other time I’d ever seen anything similar was at the Planetarium our dad used to take us to back at Morris County College.  We saw shooting starts, constellations, satellites, the white cloudy band of the Milky Way galaxy—something I remember being able to see as a kid back in Randolph NJ, but sadly can never find amidst the bright lights of Chicago. On Bozcaada,  we spent each night sitting out in the yard just gazing up at the sky. I loved it.  I was awe. There is something about seeing the universe above you to remind you just how small you are, and just how beautiful life is.



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